Closing the gap
A much neglected method, even by otherwise quite experienced and proficient anglers, the slider allows you to float fish deep water without having to fix the float so far from the hook that casting becomes at best difficult and at worst impossible.
How the slider works
A sliding float slides on the line by virtue of one or two small eyes, depending
on whether it is a sliding waggler for still and slow water (one eye, in the base
of the float) or a sliding balsa for fast-
When you cast, a sliding float hangs only a few feet above the hook, prevented from
sliding all the way down by shot. In the water, the shot pull the line through the
eye or eyes until the float is cocked by a stop knot at the desired distance from
the hook -
When to use a slider
The most common misconception about the slider is that you only fish it when the water is deeper than the length of your rod. A 13ft (3.9m) rod might mean that you can fix a float 13ft (3.9m) from the hook, but you can't cast comfortably with the float jammed against the top ring. A good rule to remember, in all aspects of angling, is that if you feel comfortable your performance is enhanced. So if you are faced with a swim 10ft (3m) or more deep, consider using a slider.
You can use any bodied or straight waggler as a slider, so long as it's semi-
These days you can buy a wide range of semi-
The best type of adaptor is a silicone tube with part of a swivel inserted. The hole of the swivel is usually big enough to allow free passage of the line but small enough to catch the stop knot.
Once .you have attached your reel and threaded the line through the rod rings, remove
the last 15cm (6in) or so of reel line and use it to tie on a sliding stop knot (see
Stop knot tying sequence 1-
Adjust the bulk shotting until about three quarters of the float submerges, then add your intermediate and dropper shot. Next, remove the shot immediately above the float and replace it on top of the rest of the bulk. Flick out the float, leave the bail arm off and check that the line is sliding freely through the eye of the float to the stop knot.
Check the wind
Before you test the depth of your swim, carry out the following routine. Imagine
you are standing on a clock face at 6 o'clock, with where you want to cast to at
12 o'clock. Note the direction of the wind. If it is blowing from any point from
You must use the overhead casting technique. If the wind is blowing from the left, cast from over your right shoulder. If it is blowing from the right, cast from over your left shoulder.
Feather the line to check the float just before it hits the water. This ensures that the intermediate and dropper shot carry on past the float in a straight line, so avoiding tangles.
Cast past where you want to fish, so that the line sinks as you wind the float into position. Then open the bail arm to allow line to peel off the reel as the bulk shot sinks your hook bait.
Rather than struggle with a plummet on the hook, plumb the depth of your swim by
trial and error. Make a number of trial casts, moving the stop knot a few inches
up the line each time until the dropper shot just rest on the bottom of the swim
and the float doesn't quite cock properly. Then note the length of line between
the hook and the dropper shot. Let's assume it's 45cm (18in). If you want the hook
bait to trip along the bottom of the swim, move the stop knot down 45cm (18in). If
you want to fish the hook bait over depth, move the stop knot down 15-
Counting for bites
Because the float cocks in three definite stages you can spot bites on the drop. This you do as follows:
Look carefully at the Spotting bites on the drop sequence of diagrams. Once the bulk
shot has registered (diagram 1), start counting. After a few casts (with no bait
on the hook) you will find that the setting of the float tip in diagram 2 -
Top and bottom sliding floats for running water are rarely found in tackle shops
nowadays, but you can easily adapt ordinary balsa floats yourself by glueing or
whipping on small eyes. Sliding balsas don't have to be semi-
Shotting is much the same as for the sliding waggler, the only difference being
the addition of a small shot above the bulk, to keep the float and bulk apart during
the cast. This is essential whenever you use a float attached top and bottom, otherwise
the hook tends to wrap itself around the top of the float in mid-
The casting technique is also the same as with the sliding waggler, the only difference
being that you should feather the line in mid-
One advantage of the slider is that you needn't worry about the float jamming in the top eye of the rod when you have played a fish to the surface and are about to land it.
To make an ordinary balsa into a sliding float, whip on two metal eyes, having first bent them over at right angles to prevent the line sticking to the side of the float. Whip one on at the base, and the other at the side, near the top.
If you are a float-
|Fixed Spool Reels|
|Feeding a Swim|
|Mixing and Using Groundbait|
|Fishing the Slider|
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|Whites, Pinkies & Squatts|
|Bloodwork & Joker|
|Beans and Peas|
|Hard Boiled Recipes|
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